All posts in Budapest Christmas

Budapest Christmas: places, events, markets, festivals, etc.

The public transport company in Budapest, BKV, is running bright light Xmas trams (streetcars) at Christmas time in Budapest, Hungary. The Christmas trams run along the big ring road (tram 6), by the river Danube (Tram 2 or 2A on the Pest side, and Tram 19 on the Buda side) along the embankment of Budapest, etc.

Budapest Christmas Streetcar Schedule

The big ring road in Budapest, aka the grand boulevard (nagy körút) is one of the most important and central routes in the city, which runs in a semi circle from Buda through Pest then back to Buda, touching the Margaret Bridge, Oktogon Square, Blaha Square, Petofi Bridge, Moricz korter Square, among others.

The Christmas trams are wrapped in lights, so they are called Budapest Xmas lights Streetcars, and are some of the lovely festive sights in Budapest at Christmas time.

The Christmas trams run usually between 5 pm and 9 pm in the evenings, from Dec 1 to Jan 7. The nostalgia tram is enlightened with approx. 40,000 LED lights.

The tram is free to ride for under 6 children, and standard tram tickets are valid on the Christmas Lights Trams for over 6 children, and adults.

This is another lovely Budapest Christmas Streetcar video, we love the way how children and passengers get smiley on the brightly lit, glowing Xmas streetcar of Budapest, Hungary:

De feestelijk verlichte kersttrams rijden weer in Boedapest

Christmas in Communism

The Christmas holidays somehow managed to survive the oppression of Communism, despite all efforts to turn the Christian celebration into the celebration of the Fir Tree (Fenyounnep) and of Winter Father (Telapo – basically Santa Clause without any reference to St Nikolaus).

Christmas in Communism

Christmas in Communism (Source: Emlekpont)

During the Communist times, from the 1950s up until the 1980s, religion as such was suppressed by the Communist government, and so were religious traditions and holidays, as well as church services. Christmas remained a holiday though, and it was sort of re-branded in Communist style. The Communist Xmas was the family holiday, the Celebration of the Fir Tree, winter merry activities, and the ever greens. The family was of course the cell of the big Communist brother/sisterhood. Jesus, Bethlehem, the three wise men, Christianity were not mentioned as being part of Christmas.

People in Hungary, and generally in the Communist countries behind the Iron Curtain, were discouraged to attend Christmas religious gatherings, including midnight masses, which were still held in smaller villages and towns, hidden, in secret. There are many living eye witnesses from the Communist times who can recall the controversial nature of Christmases behind the Iron Curtain.

In general, being a church goer was not compatible with being a ‘good Communist,’ which every citizen was supposed to be, who were the subjects of the Soviet block, the extended empire of the USSR. Citizens were observed by the hardworking people of the secret police of the totalitarian Communist governments. There were thousands of little helpers built into communities, who were to report any unacceptable (religious) behavior. The secret Communist moles were often everyday people, long part of their community, who were simply threatened with all sorts of potential punishments (to themselves and their families) if they had the slightest intention to reject the idea of writing reports as a Communist mole. It was in many cases a means of survival to become a red brick in the system of constant, day in day out observations. Big Brother was indeed watching all, and Big Brother was watching the Christmas too.

So much so, that certain events were scheduled by Christmas by the Hungarian State Protection Authority (ÁVH), that is the Hungarian Communist secret police. For instance Jozsef Mindszenty the cardinal of the Catholic Church was taken prisoner at Christmas:

It was a symbolical gesture that the State Protection Committee […] scheduled the capture and imprisonment of Jozsef Mindszenty by Dec 26, 1949. (source: Hungarian historical portal: mult-kor.hu)
Later, as the mult-kor Hungarian historian points out, the “second day of Christmas” (i.e. Christmas Day) was simply abolished by the Communist Party. During the Rakosi regime, instead of Christmas, the birthday of Stalin was celebrated as the main winter event (Dec 18, 1878). December 24 was festive, a festive fir tree celebration with many performances by children and adults, but not the main event in the calendar of the 1950s. Stalin was the Big Father figure and the source of all good…

Hungarian Christmas Postcard in the Communism

Hungarian ‘Christmas’ Postcard in the Communism (Source: Emlekpont)

Interestingly enough, in Hungary, Father Christmas (aka Winter Father or Telapo) comes to Hungarian kids at the beginning of December, Dec 6, rather than on Dec 24, 25 or 26. On December 6, St Nicholaus (Mikulas) aka Father Winter (Telapo) – both the religious and the non-clerical versions are widely used in Hungarian language – brings lots of goodies for the children if they behaved well. If a kid was too mischievous, (s)he would be given a bunch of golden twigs from the helper of St Nicholaus, the Krampus (a red horned little devil). After the little bags of chocolates and fruits on Dec 6, Hungarian children were really looking forward to the Christmas presents on Dec 24. Christmas Eve is / was the night to get the real, the big Xmas gifts, Dec 6 was / is merely a foreword to the Christmas narrative.
The Christmas tree was of course decorated during the Communist style Fir tree celebrations, and the Hungarian Christmas candy, the chocolate fondant ‘szaloncukor’ could not be missing from the tree (if there was a tree, or if there were any boxes of Szaloncukor – sometimes there wasn’t any, due to market shortages in the 50s). The tree was full of festive shiny decor, there were presents placed under the tree, and there were singing, poems, and all sorts of cultural entertainment. Only Jesus and the Christian context were dug deep somewhere.
But back to the Communist ‘Christmas’: when kids went back to school after the Christmas holidays (officially the Fir tree holidays), the teachers, relatives, friends of families, etc. could all hear about the Christmas as they interviewed the children: what did you get? where did you go? what did you sing? who brought the gifts?. As kids re-told the events of family Christmas happenings, outsiders could get information about how a certain family celebrated their Fir Tree celebrations. It easily turned out who kept themselves to the Communist rules and who needed more brainwashing. It was a big no-no to ask (or to mention) ‘What did the Baby Jesus bring to you for Christmas?’, which is the most typical question to ask these days, after decades of Communism in Hungary (Please note that in many Hungarian families there is an alternative version of this question, namely ‘What did the Little Angel bring to you for Christmas?’)

Despite the whitewashing (red washing?) of Christmas with Communist ideology (and then, after 1989 with the global commercialization), the Hungarian belief of Baby Jesus delivering Xmas presents has been
around for centuries. But, as pointed out above, even this tradition seems to be mixed with the Little Angel delivering gifts.

These days most children in developed countries get to see the secret miracle of the Christmas tree in the supermarkets and stores of the mega sized shopping malls at the beginning of November (or even in mid
October…). So parents need to invent new things to keep Christmas full of surprises, warmth, and joyful expectations. And if you want to do some Xmas shopping in a non-shopping-mall atmosphere, some good places to visit are the traditional Hungarian Christmas markets: on Vorosmarty Square, at the Basilica, in Obuda, or on Bakats Square. And to get away from it all, just take a ride to Normafa in the Buda Hills, and enjoy crisp winter air, the tranquil trees, the snow covered slopes, and some hot drinks and meals in the restaurants atop Normafa.

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Do you have any memories from the Communist times at Christmas? Please fee free to share with us below in the comments, or send your personal account to share with others at the following email address: budapestchristmas [at] gmail dot com.

Christmas dinner at Hotel Kempinski Budapest

The festive Christmas Dinner at Hotel Kempinski is on Christmas Eve and on Christmas Night, i.e. the festive dinner menu is available on December 24 & December 25 starting at 6 pm. Both standard and vegetarian menus are available as detailed below.

The special Xmas Menu of Hotel Kempinski is as follows:

  • Goose liver terrine with red mullet wine jelly
  • Cauliflower cream soup with venison and cress
  • Scalopps with sugar peas, mushroom and glazed kumquat
  • Traditional Christmas goose served with apple –
  • red cabbage and curd cheese dumpling or
  • Grilled cod with pumpkin, apple, carrot and basil
  • Soufflé and ice cream of mandarin
  • Christmas Pralines with tea or coffee

The complete price of the Xmas menu above is EUR 66 inclusive of a glass of Champagne.

The Vegetarian Christmas menu is of course considerably cheaper. See the menu and the price:

Vegetarian Offer on Dec 24 and 25 at Hotel Kempinski

  • Terrine of zucchini, tomato and mozzarella with basil
  • Cream of cauliflower with truffel caviar and cress
  • Risotto with cherry tomato, pine seeds and baby spinach
  • Roast tofu with pumpkin, apple, carrot and basil
  • Soufflé and ice cream of mandarin
  • Christmas Pralines with tea or coffee

EUR 42 inclusive of a glass of Champagne

More info about the Christmas deal at Kempinski Budapest here.

Budapest Christmas Package at Hotel Kempinski

Enjoy the Christmas season’s joys, wonders, colours and tastes in Budapest. Kempinski Corvinus, along with all luxury hotels in Budapest, awaits you with Christmas packages including festive delicacies like spicy mulled wine and Christmas Crepes.

Budapest Christmas Package at Hotel Kempinski

Wrapped in the warm aromas of the festive season, with the traditional Budapest Christmas markets’ gift-heavy stalls right at your doorstep (Hotel Kempinski is a 2 min walk from Vorosmarty Square Budapest Christmas Market), mulled wine and freshly fried bites, the Kempinski Corvinus Budapest offers one of the most convenient hotel locations in Budapest to truly immerse yourself in the December holidays in the city of Budapest. In and around the Kempinski Corvinus, like the nice square of Erzsebet ter, it’s all about Christmas, Xmas lights, Xmas flavors, Xmas smells.

Hotel Kempinski Xmas Package  December 1-27, 2012
The hotel’s Christmas Package includes accommodation and breakfast, excluding taxes, plus an order of christmas crepes and mulled wine in the Kempinski Christmas Terrace on the day of arrival.

Rates per room per night:
in Superior Room from EUR 129
in Deluxe Room from EUR 159

Conditions: 100% prepayment, non-refundable. , Minimum stay: 2 nights. Rates are subject to availability, restrictions may apply. *Rates are subject to 18% VAT and 4% citytax.

More info about the Christmas deal at Kempinski Budapest here.

St Stephens Basilica Christmas: Advent Concerts

St Stephen’s Basilica is the biggest catholic church in Budapest Hungary, which presents many, often free concerts during the  Advent period before Christmas. In addition, there are many beautiful organ concerts at the St Istvan Bazilika (St Stephen’s Basilica) too:

Some of the special Advent concerts at St Stephen’s Basilica Budapest in 2012

December 1, 2012: 12th Advent and Christmas Song Festival

At 7 pm on the 1st of December 2012, you can listen to one of the most festive Advent concerts in Budapest at the St Stephen’s Basilica: there will be several choirs coming to Budapest to sing their festive Christmas songs, and after the individual performances of each choir, the choirs will be singing jointly, which will surely make you feel goosebumps, and send a happy chill down on your spine. The 12th Advent and Christmas Song Festival is a gala not to be missed if you are visiting Budapest early December. The choirs visiting Budapest will in fact be giving various concerts all over Budapest (short, half an hour guest concerts) on November 30. The common songs will be as follows:

Evening Gala concert at the St Stephen Basilica.
Short performance of each participants
Grand Finale.
Common songs:
– Kodaly: Advent Song (Veni, veni Emmanuel)
– Kodaly: Evening Song
– Franz Gruber/David Willcocks: Silent Night

The gala concert will be preceded by the mass from 6 pm to 6:45 pm, and then you can enter the Basilica free of charge to listen to this beautiful event, which has been a tradition for over ten years at the St Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest.

Can you hear these wonderful sounds in the acoustics of St Stephen’s Basilica?

December 12, 2012

On December 12, 2012, at 19.30 pm you can listen to the Christmas concert of one of the grammar schools (high schools) in Budapest, the students of the St Istvan High School (Szent Istvan Gimnazium) will be singing Advent songs at the Basilica in Budapest.

December 13, 2012

On December 13, 2012, at 7 pm you can listen to the Christmas concert of the Generali Choir at the Basilica in Budapest.

December 15, 2012

On December 15, 2012, you can listen to the Christmas concert of the Hungarian Customs and Finance Guard Choir at the Basilica in Budapest.

December 20, 2012

On December 20, 2012, at 8 pm you can listen to the Organ Concert at the St Stephen’s Basilica (70 min). The program includes Bach, Vivaldi, Mozart, Bizet, Beethoven, Schubert, etc.

December 27, 2012

On December 27, 2012, at 8 pm you can listen to the Organ Concert at the St Stephen’s Basilica (70 min). The program includes Bach, Vivaldi, Mozart, Liszt, Stradella,, Beethoven, Albinoni, etc.