All posts in Budapest Christmas

Budapest Christmas: places, events, markets, festivals, etc.

For many locals in Budapest, including us, Normafa Hill is a haven in winter time (What am I saying? All year round!).

Normafa Hill

Normafa Hill in Winter – Artur Herczeg

Normafa Hill is perfect for some real winter fun in the snow, and to feel the crisp fresh air. Here you can absolutely enjoy winter, the atmosphere is great, people are very relaxed, kids are having the best of their times on the slopes, on the hilltop playgrounds, on the sleds, etc.. To boot, you can enjoy some really nice meals and hot drinks in the old ski house turned Normakert Bistro, or the cafe of Hotel Normafa. The hill is about a 40 min ride from downtown Budapest (metro then bus).

Sledding / Sleighing / Sledging on Normafa Hill – real winter fun. Half an hour ride from Szell Kalman Square, 45 min from downtown Budapest!

Normakert Bistro, that is the old Normafa Ski House in Budapest with lots of goodies and reasonable prices

Normafa Restaurant Ski House

Normafa Cafe Ski House

Normafa is also one of the stops of the Children’s Railway in Budapest (note to parents: Santa Claus will ride on the Children’s Railway in early December!)

Normafa Train Stop - Children's Railway

Normafa Train Stop (Kispados Photo Wikimedia)

Normafa is visited not only for its fresh air, but also for the wide screen panoramic views you can get of Budapest. You can stand on the 477 meter high hill, and play a guessing game, trying to spot some Budapest attractions from Normafa (there is also a small scale model showing which hill is which in the Buda Hills):

Normafa Night Views

Normafa Night Views – Deccard Photography

Normafa Hill got its name from a tree (‘fa’ in Hungarian means ‘tree’) that was called Norma. The characteristic beech tree atop the hill was planted in the 15th century, during King Matthias’ reign. The name Norma was only later stuck on the old tree, when the Hungarian National Theater visited the hilltop and performed Vincenzo Bellini’s Norma by the beech. The tree was about 5 centuries old, and inspired many a Hungarian artists, painters, writers, etc. Eventually the old tree gave up and fell in 1927. A new beech tree was planted in its place in 1962, and a memorial stone has been placed over the roots of the old tree.

Old Normafa Tree Memorial

Old Normafa Tree Memorial (source: owl.hu)

Go Free Hungarian Snowboarding Team

Go Free Hungarian Snowboarding Team (Normafa.hu)

There are many fun things to do and outdoor activities on and around Normafa:

  • You can take the Children’s Railway for a nice ride on top of the Buda hills, in the fresh air and nice woods
  • You can hop on the Chair Lift (Libego) on Janos Hill
  • You can climb atop the highest and most beautiful lookout tower of the Buda Hills in Budapest: the Elisabeth Lookout Tower on Janos Hill
  • You can try the Hungarian snack called Langos (sour dough bread with toppings), or embrace your sweet tooth and try a flavorsome Strudel (Retes)
  • You can drink some mulled wine to keep you warm (eat bean goulash, etc.)
  • You can enjoy nature photography at any time of the year (wonderful shades and colors in the woods, local birds spotted, etc.)
  • You can do some adventure sports, skiing, sledding, snowboarding (and a lot more when there is no snow, biking uphill – downhill, etc.)

Chimney Cake (kurtoskalacs) is one of the traditional Hungarian cakes, originally made by Hungarians living in Transylvania (now in Romania). Chimney cake is a lovely sweet snack, a must try at the Budapest Xmas Markets, loved by kids and adults.

Chimney Cake

Chimney cake is the sweet rock and roll pastry for Hungarians. Pretzel for the salty, Chimney cake for the sweet. A walking snack, and a sight to behold as it is made in front of your eyes (and nose!).

Chimney Cake at the Christmas Market in Budapest

Chimney Cake at the Xmas Fair in Budapest – Peter Pászti Photography

While we consider Chimney Cake a sweet delight during winter time in Hungary, it is not a special Christmas pastry (unlike Beigli), and can be bought all year round, especially at Budapest festivals, like the Festival of Folk Arts in Buda Castle in August.

You can walk around the Christmas market with your warm and delicious Chimney cake: milk bread grilled over open fire. You can pick a flavour too: cinnamon, almond, walnut, coconut, etc. There are lots of yummy versions of Kurtoskalacs. No worries, the vendors will speak English. But if you wonder what the pronunciation of Kurtoskalacs is, let’s see how you say this yummy mouthful word: cure-tosh-col-arch. Not so hard, right?

 

It is sold at a more expensive price at the market (as all foods and drinks), but considering that there is no entrance fee to the Christmas market, it is not so pricey after all (about 4 Euros per roll, which could be 1-2 Euros otherwise…). So we shut our eyes, and roll with the Christmas: we love to nibble a freshly baked Chimney cake on the Christmas market, and have our mulled wine too!

The dough is basically a sort of milk loaf baked and rolled in cinnamon, cocoa powder, etc. Once the dough has raised and is ready to bake, it is thinly stretched by a rolling pin, cut in slightly to make a snake like strip of the dilapidated dough, then quickly rolled on a thicker wooden rolling pin, which has a metal handle and a metal hook. The dough on the pin is then baked in an open fire over the glistening coals. Once the cake is baked, and has a nice brown coating, it is slipped off the thick wooden rolls. The cake looks like a little barbecued pipe, or the chimney stack of old times. Hence the name Chimney Cake (Kürtős kalács in Hungarian).
The cake roll gets its final flavors when it is rolled in the sugary mixtures of cinnamon, cocoa, ginger, etc. The rolls are sold in packages too. It won’t be as delicious if eaten later, and delivered in a plastic wrapping, but it could be one of your Hungarian culinary gifts – some food for thought.

Is Szechenyi Bath in Budapest open during the Christmas holidays? Can you visit the thermal pools and enjoy the outdoor facilities as seen in many winter photos of Szechenyi Baths? Yes, you can! In fact, the major thermal pools in Budapest baths are open even on religious and national holidays with weekend prices. Dec 30 in 2018 brings the New Year Spa Party in Szechenyi Baths!

Szechenyi Bath at Christmas

Szechenyi Bath at Christmas – photo by Leon de Nemea

Many Budapest travel guides say that Budapest is quiet or dead at Christmas, but this is not true any more.

Szechenyi Baths is open throughout the Christmas holiday, with the following opening hours (the hours were the same in the last few years, but the schedule of 2013 has not been confirmed by the bath yet):

Christmas opening hours 2018

  • Dec 24: opening hours from 6am to 2pm (all the facilities in Szechenyi Baths)
  • Dec 25: opening hours from 6am to 10pm (all 3 outdoor pools and most of the thermal section in Szechenyi Baths)
  • Dec 26: opening hours from 6am to 10pm (all 3 outdoor pools and most of the thermal section in Szechenyi Baths)
Szechenyi Baths Party Budapest NYE Sparty

Szechenyi Baths Party Budapest NYE Sparty

New Year Opening Hours 2018 / 2019

  • Dec 30: Bath Party from 10:30 pm: New Year’s Eve Party in Szechenyi Bath Budapest: the spectacular laser disco organized by Cinetrip is perhaps the best New Year’s Eve Party in Budapest.
  • Dec 31: open from 6 am to 6 pm. Book a massage for the last day of the year (from , soak in the baths, and enjoy some amazing days of your life in Budapest
  • Jan 31: Szechenyi bath is open from 10 pm to 6 pm. Visiting Szechenyi Bath is a popular way to get over the New Year’s Eve party symptoms, so you may wish to buy your ticket online

Deals at Szechenyi Medicinal Bath

Aroma Relax Massage Szechenyi Bath Budapest

Aroma Relax Massage Szechenyi Bath Budapest

The best massage deal for your winter holiday in Budapest: 20 min massage at Szechenyi Bath from 21 Euros. Booking in advance online is warmly recommended as available slots get quickly filled up.

The massage therapists of Szechenyi Thermal Bath have a medicinal massage certificate and many years of experience – over 1 million guests at the Szechenyi Bath each year…. They are the cheapest masseuses in the thermal bath complex, which also features other private massage salons whose prices are higher than the Szechenyi Medicinal Bath massage services (also serving patients referred to the bath by Hungarian doctors, yes, on prescription).

More info about Szechenyi Bath, tickets, massages, towel rental, swim wear rental, pedicure, etc.: Szechenyi Baths Christmas opening hours

Szechenyi Bath in Winter – Open Steaming Outdoor Pools

The following video has been made by a tourist visiting Szechenyi Medicinal Bath late November (temperature outside: 4 degrees Celsius = 40 degrees Fahrenheit). As you can see the bath is quite popular, yes, even in winter time and on the holidays in December (Christmas and New Year too!):

Jose Carreras, the world famous Catalan tenor will perform his Christmas concert at the Budapest Palace of Arts, the huge concert hall, shortly known as MUPA (as the acronym in Muveszetek Palotaja).

Jose Carreras in Budapest

Jose Carreras in Budapest

The performance will be stellar and accordingly the tickets are insanely expensive compared to usual Hungarian concert and opera prices. But if you want to hear first grade, top notch tenor, it has its price, especially at Christmas. What a perfect gift for a luxurious Budapest Xmas getaway!

Event: Jose Carreras Concert Show at the Budapest Palace of Arts (MUPA)
Date: 7.30 pm – 10.30 pm, 16 December 2012,
Venue: Palace of Arts, Bartók Béla National Concert Hall
Prices: 15000, 20000, 25000, 30000, 39000, 40000, 59000, 60000, 99000 Ft (also include the Standing Reception in the Glass Hall after the performance)

Booking is on the official website of MUPA (the Palace of Arts)

Booking Carreras Concert

Jose Carreras will be accompanied by the National Philharmonic Orchestra from Kassa. Conductor David Giménez.

The performance will feature classic Christmas songs, like the Silent Night, Ave Maria, White Christmas, the Champagne Duet from Traviata. However, as you would expect, the celeb tenor does not give a fix program of the night, but lets himself guided by his instantaneous inspirations – inspired maybe by You.
Jose Carreras “Nessun dorma” Turandot

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La Boheme Budapest Opera House Christmas

If you want to celebrate Christmas at the Opera House in Budapest, you may still book some tickets for the Christmas opera performances of La Bohéme by Puccini.

La Boheme Budapest Opera House Christmas

La Boheme Budapest Opera House Christmas

The opera will be performed in four acts and three parts oOn December 25 and December 26, from 7 pm to 10 pm. There will be two different casts and conductors on Dec 25 and 26.

Booking online is on the ticket agency website, jegymester.hu

Booking for Dec 25 Tuesday
Booking Opera Dec 25
Booking for Dec 26 Wednesday

Booking Opera Dec 26

Dates of La Bohéme at the Budapest Opera House in December 2012

1. December 2012. | Saturday
2. December 2012. | Sunday
4. December 2012. | Tuesday
7. December 2012. | Friday
8. December 2012. | Saturday
13. December 2012. | Thursday
15. December 2012. | Saturday
22. December 2012. | Saturday
25. December 2012. | Tuesday
26. December 2012. | Wednesday
30. December 2012. | Sunday

This is a short video of the La Bohéme performance at the Hungarian Opera House in Budapest in 2007, and we can only agree with one of the commenters of the video “Tokody is a national treasure of Hungary”. In 2012 on Dec 25 and Dec 26 you will not see Ilona Tokody as Mimi, but the opera performance will be beautiful nevertheless!:
Ilona Tokody (Mimi) Puccini: La Boheme